Z-pulley crevasse rescue field trip at Stevens pass. It was snowing lightly.
Round1: Middle person in rope team of 3
1. I connected to the main Rope to the two belay loops through the locking carabiner. Connected the chest prusick and leg prusick to a second non-locking carabiner. Team mates took turns to verify that the locks are secure and locked.
2.When the last person fell into a little man made crevasse , the lead and me arrested keeping our entire body weight onto the ice axe. Since I was the person in the middle, I was carrying the weight of 170 pound man when the person got up to make the first anchor!.. After the first anchor was secured, I got up to make the second anchor or the dead man anchor in the snow. This was done by
1. measuring the length for double runner to start from where the first anchor was placed.
2. Dig 3ft into the snow and place the picket with a double runner girth hitched to it. Run the runner under the rope and attached it to the carabiner connected to the first anchor.
3. setup second pulley.
4.After that used the connected to the chest pruisk to the main rope and slowly moved to the top of the crevasse. Dug the blade of ice axe into the snow and buried the sling in the stop.
5. Moved back up to the first anchor by using the chest prusick and both of us pulled up the fallen climber.
--->Missing few other details.. to be added
Round2: leader of the rope team of 3
1. I connected to the main Rope to the two belay loops through the locking carabiner. Connected the chest prusick and leg prusick to a second non-locking carabiner. Team mates took turns to verify that the locks are secure and locked.
2. When the last person fell into crevasse, me and middle person arrested. I checked with everyone if they were ok. Making sure the middle person was securely arrested . I got up moved to the foot of the second person
3. Strongly dug the ice axe into the snow making the first anchor. Now the weight of the fallen climber has been transferred to the ice axe.
4. setup the first pulley. Put my leg on the anchor to secure it more
5. Later while the second person was setting up the second anchor, still connected to the rope, detached the two prusick.
6. Un winded the rope , removed the knots and threw the other end of rope to second person to make the second anchor
7. Finally after he returned ,both of us pulled the fallen climber
--->Missing few other details.. to be added
Lecture self rescue:
We had in class lecture for self arrest. Attached to a rope connected to basketball hoop in gym. Used the chest prusick to move it up the rope as much as possible and then sat there on rope. Put legs on leg prusick to pull myself up
Round1: Middle person in rope team of 3
1. I connected to the main Rope to the two belay loops through the locking carabiner. Connected the chest prusick and leg prusick to a second non-locking carabiner. Team mates took turns to verify that the locks are secure and locked.
2.When the last person fell into a little man made crevasse , the lead and me arrested keeping our entire body weight onto the ice axe. Since I was the person in the middle, I was carrying the weight of 170 pound man when the person got up to make the first anchor!.. After the first anchor was secured, I got up to make the second anchor or the dead man anchor in the snow. This was done by
1. measuring the length for double runner to start from where the first anchor was placed.
2. Dig 3ft into the snow and place the picket with a double runner girth hitched to it. Run the runner under the rope and attached it to the carabiner connected to the first anchor.
3. setup second pulley.
4.After that used the connected to the chest pruisk to the main rope and slowly moved to the top of the crevasse. Dug the blade of ice axe into the snow and buried the sling in the stop.
5. Moved back up to the first anchor by using the chest prusick and both of us pulled up the fallen climber.
--->Missing few other details.. to be added
Round2: leader of the rope team of 3
1. I connected to the main Rope to the two belay loops through the locking carabiner. Connected the chest prusick and leg prusick to a second non-locking carabiner. Team mates took turns to verify that the locks are secure and locked.
2. When the last person fell into crevasse, me and middle person arrested. I checked with everyone if they were ok. Making sure the middle person was securely arrested . I got up moved to the foot of the second person
3. Strongly dug the ice axe into the snow making the first anchor. Now the weight of the fallen climber has been transferred to the ice axe.
4. setup the first pulley. Put my leg on the anchor to secure it more
5. Later while the second person was setting up the second anchor, still connected to the rope, detached the two prusick.
6. Un winded the rope , removed the knots and threw the other end of rope to second person to make the second anchor
7. Finally after he returned ,both of us pulled the fallen climber
--->Missing few other details.. to be added
Lecture self rescue:
We had in class lecture for self arrest. Attached to a rope connected to basketball hoop in gym. Used the chest prusick to move it up the rope as much as possible and then sat there on rope. Put legs on leg prusick to pull myself up
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